"Just a routine expedition"...

Bad Roads...

Seems the old adage "bad roads bring good people..." works both ways. On our recent travels looking for adventure at the tail end of Centro America we encountered nothing but brazos abiertos from the rural people. A healthy dose of curiosity and warm smiles paved our way to the Pacific over hours of bumpy road and creek bottom. We shared this local collectivo with a weed wacker, a dog in a bag, and eighteen hearty locals.

Samba Cloud

It has been five years since I passed the torch of my '87 VW Vanagon. A series of circumstances (including a hit and run, a blown motor, and a feral drunk breaking in, passing out and pissing all over himself and my van) forced me to let her go. Like so many of these stories begin, "I bought mine from this old dude"... the original owner, a retired professor from UCB in '99. I lived in it the better part of that first year and on and off thereafter. We had a six year, 150k mile love affair that spanned Baja to BC. And in all that time, she never left me stranded.

Recently, due to a nagging itch, and the request of my wife (she digs van life too!!) we have started to search for and dream of life in a-Vanagon-Again. Certainly not the most efficient, economical, or reliable ride to own, but there is something undeniably addictive about the experience. Thanks to a nostalgic urge and a romantic notion, the search for another Vanagon begins and (hopefully) the journey continues.

photo by: juan b. a fellow sambanista

Full Circle Surf

Last week I made my way back to the beaches of my childhood. The place I first flew a kite, first felt glide under foot, and the place I first dreamt of being a surfer. The barrier islands of Lower Slower Delaware and OCMD are not necessarily known the world over for their quality of waves. Yet the stoke and dreams of a beachie life are as thriving and rooted here as anywhere. The summer people and boardwalk culture obscure the beauty and potential this place has to offer. But, under the surface there are the people that live and breathe the ocean life, a core of dedicated fishermen and wave sliders that are on it anytime it's good and even when it's not.

As the swell season is winding down, I was grateful for the three days of 60 deg. weather, well groomed bars and the chest to head high conditions. The water was still plenty cold, and the murky run off left me with a sore throat. But a few fresh pints of Dogfish Head and the Maryland Crab soup made it all alright.

Photos from the St. Patrick's day swell 2010 courtesy of Nick Denny.

Home Away from Home

It's been awhile since I have slept in my van,
starting to feel a little homesick.

three classics, fffound fotos

Southern Sun

easy living...

simple pleasures...

southern sun...

A Year Ago Today

journal entry: Saturday Jan.17th, 2009,

"Oye! checked a south river jetty at dawn. Thick, walled and 2x over head. My head cold and 7-2 left me feeling undergunned ( or I just lack the sack to paddle out at this spot alone today). So I pointed it further south to check a cove I've been eyeing for just such an occasion. Turned out glassy, looooong, headhigh, fishalicious rights. A loc paddled over to introduce himself and thank me for not being a dick and not paddling right to the top of the point (as this spot doesn't exactly regulate itself like up north) he then proceeded to call me into waves. Never experienced that before. We shared the sets w/ 3-4 others until my arms went to jello and the tide filled in. 4 hrs. of strong winter sun and perfect whackable rights passed. I tapped my booties together 3 times to make sure I wasn't dreaming but the S.Ore. coast was reeeeeeel...ing"

This was the 1st day of a spontaneous 5 day solo road trip. One where absolutely everything fell perfectly into place. One that left me dropped jawed and speechless at the sheer beauty and good fortune I have experienced in my life. Though it is impossible and foolish to deem one road trip as "the best", this one surely contained a few of the most memorable go-outs I've had to date. One at a spot "with not a soul in sight, chatting it up with bull kelp between sets, big (enough) and perfect, driving down emerald green faces with VW size boulders inches below the surface"

I guess I reminisce because my current (day to day) life is so far removed from a year ago. And keeping it fresh reminds me how important it is to find my way back. Create my own reality. I guess.

Winter Missions

"I don't care if it rains or freezes, long as I got my plastic Jesus,
riding on the dashboard of my car..."

snowy roads @ dawn

1st light on glass

long drive home...

Hope everyone's getting their fill. I have been left to reflect on waves gone by and to day dream about dawn to dusk missions from winters past as these December swells roll through. Trying my best to weather my landlocked holddown at the moment. A few strategic missions have helped fill the void this fall, but all in all coming up short on filling my cold water quota this season.

*top photo: unknown