Welcome Wagon

A five month work/vacation spent looking for summer bumps in the pacific was long overdue but poor timing wavewise. One day back in FLA. and JOJ, this is what the Atlantic was dishing up on the 1st coast.

photos by David M. @ BlueSky

Maybe it's Wild

Maybe it's the 12 @ 16, maybe the pace yourself paddle out. Maybe it's the groppling hold downs, nasal enemas, and rips' like rivers. Or maybe it's the drawn out lines on head and a half faces. It's not the endless sunshine, not the bikini clad girls, and it's not the 80* water. Those things were around all summer long. Whatever it is, I felt it today. Exhilarated, an acute sense of being alive. An energy sent up from the depths of mother ocean that humbles and rejuvenates us. We soak it in and carry it back to land until we can experience it all over again. Thanks Earl.

Stacked

I SMELL SWELL. Sprouting off the coast of Cape Verde, Earl is nipping at the heals of his big sister Danielle while I wait anxiously to greet them. A few weeks ago tropical storm Collin passed by and delivered mostly clean conditions for several days, yet he generally lacked luster.

This will be my first fall in North Florida. And though the landscape is foreign, it is clear the seasons are changing, waves are on the way, and things are looking up. Hopefully, these are the first signs of things to come.