Winter Storage

A chest of drawers I made this fall for the squirrel in me. A place to store my nuts, or perhaps, keep track of my marbles (through my long dry spells). Actually, my original motivation was a little different, hopefully a little deeper than that, but the above seems most appropriate at the moment.

Fall Fun Ones

My first fall on the east coast in 18 years proved fruitful....wavewise.
Not that I could be on it every little window of opportunity,
but I was there...when I needed to be.

tweaked film shots from New England

Road Salt

The sting of road salt on my lips reminds me of the sweet taste of the ocean. I chuckle to myself as I lick it up and dream of being cold and saturated in a more satisfying way. Even so, there's never a dull moment biking with traffic this time of year.

Nor'easter+Ida=Nor'Ida

Nor'ida wreaked havoc on Hatteras and much of the Eastern Seaboard last week. Apparently the roads leading off the Cape in NC were closed four days. However, it delivered some cold water gems to New England over the weekend and into the week and Me and "T" were there to greet them. Long period, lined up, offshore, crisp, clear and sweet. All was good, except for the chicken wings...

Cosmic Connection

A few weeks ago I surfed a spot (in a state) that I had never been to before. After a few hours of much needed water time, I decided to check the wave up the road before the sun went down. I got in my van, pointed it north, found the pull out I was looking for and grabbed the only parking space available. Not a minute later, the guy parked in front of me walks up to his car dripping wet and calls my name. I couldn't believe it. How random. Or was it? It was my old friend Trevor (the names have been changed to protect the innocent). The last time I ran into Trevor was 12 years ago. I was at a New Years Eve show at some random venue in San Francisco. I was in line to use the men's room and recognized the guy in front of me...it was Trevor. Keep in mind that neither of us lived in CA. at the time and we hadn't seen each other for maybe 4 years before that.

Trevor is an old friend from my "blurry" years. We shared some crazy experiences together. A few that come to mind involved a coast to coast flight with a very large and very stinky suitcase. Another, Texas girls on vacation with their church group and more pitchers of margaritas than anyone can remember. We were young and we were dumb but we had fun. That was another lifetime ago...

So, there we were, once again, cosmically crossing paths. Once the initial shock wore off we went to have a beer and some chowder and some more beers. Trevor informed me it was his birthday in the morning. Instead of parting ways, we called our wives, called into work and decided to ring in his birthday sharing waves together. The last time that happened....Baja Norte, 1990.

Sweet Relief

swell dying fast but still finding cover

I finally found my way to the sea again! I managed to score a few sessions of a decent little ground swell before it faded away into the night. It's been way too long and drying out is hard to do. Discovering rocky points on the East coast gives me hope. Learning to love a west wind, a little disorienting. Accepting the windows of opportunity are so short lived, a hard pill to swallow. Ahhhh but being wet again, engulfed in the salty embrace of mother ocean, that is all that mattered. The token fuzzy photo was snapped this morning after I got out. Inspired by a salt stained glider.

New England Colors

It's been a loooong time since I've experienced a fall in New England. I forgot how breathtaking this part of the country can be. I had a crazy hair (seems all I have left are crazy hairs) to surf and to sink all in the same day. This entailed an early start and a lot of driving. The stars aligned and I woke to small clean surf. Just had to wait a little for the tide to fill in. The day was crisp and the fall colors in full affect. Snapped some photos along the way...the sinking to follow.

Vintage Rides

Got to sample some vintage rides at a craggy headland on the eastern seaboard this September. There's something strangely wonderful about tapping into the life of things, things that have been around the block a time or two and still possess the magic.

Like this '58 woody that's been in my buddy's family since day one. Four generations of fishing from this boat and still running strong. Then there was the mid-80's Shaun Tomson twinny collecting dust in the shed. My buddy got it at a garage sale for $15 bucks 10 yrs. back. Beak nose, fat and friendly foil, and plenty 'o VVVVeeeeee

The surf was nothing to write home about but the fish was fresh, the beer was cold, and catching up with old friends, way over due.