02 September 2010

Maybe it's Wild


Maybe it's the 12 @ 16, maybe the pace yourself paddle out. Maybe it's the groppling hold downs, nasal enemas, and rips' like rivers. Or maybe it's the drawn out lines on head and a half faces. It's not the endless sunshine, not the bikini clad girls, and it's not the 80* water. Those things were around all summer long. Whatever it is, I felt it today. Exhilarated, an acute sense of being alive. An energy sent up from the depths of mother ocean that humbles and rejuvenates us. We soak it in and carry it back to land until we can experience it all over again. Thanks Earl.

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