35mm Views

two views of summer on film

tropical storm Colin boat trip w/ ET. The (not so secret) Spot

grooming summer bars

Fire in the sky

Happy full moon-autumnal equinox! This is the first time these two celestial events have shared the sky in a long long time. Unfortunately the stars didn't align quite so nicely for Igor. Sideshore and onshore winds plagued the whole event leaving us a little discombobulated from the churning seas.

Sliding Igor:
No pics, no lined up long period love, no clean faces to draw on. Just pesky onshores, big chunky-junky peaks, fat-ass shoulders, a busted out fin box, lots and lots of humbling rides and a steady stream of nose dribble to carry me through 'till the next swell arrives.

photo: snapped by a friend yesterday @ sunset, nearly fullmoon on the rise.

Earl-ee Friday Morning

Summer's Fun...
but fall is SWELL.

Paddling out to greet Earl after it lined up and organized itself a couple Friday mornings ago. Turned out to be just Good Clean Fun

Summer Anthem

Now that the Labor day weekend has come and gone, dragging the kids back to school in it's wake, summer is officially over. Through the years, certain songs have stuck in my head like summer anthems and when I hear them they instantly transport me back to those carefree days when life was much simpler. This year the aptly named "summer holiday" captures that spirit as well as any, not to mention the priceless vintage Oregon footage.

Maybe it's Wild

Maybe it's the 12 @ 16, maybe the pace yourself paddle out. Maybe it's the groppling hold downs, nasal enemas, and rips' like rivers. Or maybe it's the drawn out lines on head and a half faces. It's not the endless sunshine, not the bikini clad girls, and it's not the 80* water. Those things were around all summer long. Whatever it is, I felt it today. Exhilarated, an acute sense of being alive. An energy sent up from the depths of mother ocean that humbles and rejuvenates us. We soak it in and carry it back to land until we can experience it all over again. Thanks Earl.