A Year Ago Today

journal entry: Saturday Jan.17th, 2009,

"Oye! checked a south river jetty at dawn. Thick, walled and 2x over head. My head cold and 7-2 left me feeling undergunned ( or I just lack the sack to paddle out at this spot alone today). So I pointed it further south to check a cove I've been eyeing for just such an occasion. Turned out glassy, looooong, headhigh, fishalicious rights. A loc paddled over to introduce himself and thank me for not being a dick and not paddling right to the top of the point (as this spot doesn't exactly regulate itself like up north) he then proceeded to call me into waves. Never experienced that before. We shared the sets w/ 3-4 others until my arms went to jello and the tide filled in. 4 hrs. of strong winter sun and perfect whackable rights passed. I tapped my booties together 3 times to make sure I wasn't dreaming but the S.Ore. coast was reeeeeeel...ing"

This was the 1st day of a spontaneous 5 day solo road trip. One where absolutely everything fell perfectly into place. One that left me dropped jawed and speechless at the sheer beauty and good fortune I have experienced in my life. Though it is impossible and foolish to deem one road trip as "the best", this one surely contained a few of the most memorable go-outs I've had to date. One at a spot "with not a soul in sight, chatting it up with bull kelp between sets, big (enough) and perfect, driving down emerald green faces with VW size boulders inches below the surface"

I guess I reminisce because my current (day to day) life is so far removed from a year ago. And keeping it fresh reminds me how important it is to find my way back. Create my own reality. I guess.